The weather and temperature were the main reasons why we chose Crete as a destination for our road trip in October. As our last trip had taken us to mostly undiscovered regions, such as the islands of Lefkada and Kythira, and the Mani Peninsula on the Peloponnese, this island showed us a different side—one that was dominated by a huge number of tourists. That’s when we started to ask ourselves: Would we still be able to find the authentic Crete, minus all the tour buses and holiday resorts lining the coast?
Although we were very tired from our flight from Lisbon via Athens, we decided not to waste a second and make the most out of the amazing weather. So, we jumped right into our adventure. Early in the morning, we picked up our rental car in Chania and followed the recommendations to one of the most beautiful beaches in Europe: Elafonisi Beach.
Elafonisi Beach – Crete
The road led us through impressive mountains, small villages, and majestic gorges towards the southwestern region of Crete's coast. Captivated by the extraordinary landscapes, we ignored the first warning signs, like the souvenir shops and the “photo opportunity” signs along the road. But we had an incredible drive, there was no traffic, and after 1 1/2 hours, we were more than ready for this famous beach.
Unfortunately, we weren’t directly greeted by a lovely seaside, but by parking lots, parking signs, a parking guide waving at us, a parking area for tourist buses, and, I forgot to mention… more parking lots. Staring at each other in silence, we parked the car and chose to just go with the flow, following the crowd. Considered one of the top 10 beaches in Europe, it does look beautiful, but we strongly recommend visiting it out of season or in the evening when the busloads of selfie-taking tourists have been taken back to their resorts.
To escape the touristic crowds, we walked along the lagoon and managed to find a peaceful, sunny spot with some crystal-clear turquoise water, which was perfect for snorkelling. Relieved that we hadn’t booked a place in Elafonisi village, we still didn’t have a stay for the night, so we headed back up the mountains and then a bit further southeast to Palaiochora.
After our eye-opening experience in Elafonisi, we were a bit worried about what to expect, but we were told that southern Crete is much less touristy and more traditional than the northern side, so we kept our fingers crossed while searching for accommodation during our drive.
The drive was once again very pleasant, taking us through villages with cosy little tavernas on the roadside, and to our surprise, no souvenir shops. We pulled over to eat a snack of Saganaki (fried cheese) and Dakos (local bread with pureed tomato and homemade feta cheese) at a simple but wonderful dining spot next to a peaceful mountain stream, under the branches of mulberry trees.
Palaiochora
Palaiochora – a seaside paradise in southwestern Crete
Distance: 1h 20 minutes from Chania
Palaiochora is a small town located at the entrance of a little peninsula, offering access to the sea on two different sides: one leading to an extensive sandy beach, while the other is occupied by the port. A sense of joy overcame us as we drove through the village, and it grew even stronger when we arrived at our stay for the night, just a few kilometres west of town.
Palaiochora
We topped off the evening with dinner in Palaiochora, which ended up being quite heavily visited, but in a welcoming way—completely different from our earlier experience. Surrounded by cobblestone streets, handicraft shops, and an interesting mix of locals and tourists, it was a very recommendable place to stay. Even for us, who are always looking for more authentic and unspoiled destinations, it was a lovely spot. A hidden gem, recommended to us, is the sand-and-pebble beach in a village a bit to the east called Sougia. Unfortunately, we didn’t manage to visit it, as it was a 50-minute drive from our stay, but it’s a peaceful paradise without sun loungers and perfect for snorkelling.
Where to stay:
Apartments Choumas in Gialos, a place we discovered by coincidence, lies on a small bay with only a few buildings around it. The well-designed apartments feature large terraces overlooking a garden and provide direct access to a small shingle beach right in front of the accommodation. Glimmering water and just a few sunbeds—literal perfection.
Apartments Choumas – Gialos – Palaiochora
Sougia (beach)
Distance: 50 minutes from Palaiochora
If you’re looking for a tranquil beach with a relaxed atmosphere, the beach in Sougia is a must. Unfortunately, we didn’t visit it, but it’s supposed to have a laid-back vibe and is very popular among nature and camper lovers. Enjoy fresh seafood, go on secret hiking trails, or explore the magical caves on this beach.
Loutro
Distance: 2 hours 10 minutes from Chania, 3 hours 30 minutes from Palaiochora
New day, new adventure, so we planned to head to Loutro, a famous seaside village further east along the southern coast. Easier said than done, because most southern towns are connected to the north of the island but not to each other. To get to Loutro, we would have had to drive back to Chania and then back down to Loutro. A 160 km drive of more than 3 hours and 15 minutes to reach a village less than 30 km to the east. Long story short: We skipped Loutro, but would recommend staying there, as it is supposed to be wonderful.
From Palaiochora to Loutro
Paralia Preveli beach
Distance: 2h 10 minutes from Loutro, 1h 40 minutes from Chania
We continued our road trip towards Matala, a coastal town famous for its bohemian history as a hippie haven in the 60s. Filled with eager anticipation to see another of the famous beaches on the south coast, we headed to Paralia Preveli, which had been strongly recommended to us. It’s known for its location at the foot of a gorge, with a riverbed lined with palm trees that ends at the beach.
On the way there, we passed even more villages and noticed the ever-present new Aegean architecture: cubic cement buildings with a single floor and iron rods protruding from the cement pillars—wishful thinking of being able to add another floor when there’s more money. Historic buildings seem to have disappeared from this place, which is honestly a bit sad.
Preveli beach is certainly magical, but again, we were surprised by an enormous parking lot for visitors that stole the unique charm of this place. We found out that influencers were responsible for this situation and had over-advertised this little spot. By the way, you have to cope with 500 steps from the parking lot down to the beach and back up. There is no other way to reach it, so be ready for a little hiking excursion.
Matala
Distance: 1h 30 minutes from Preveli beach, 2h 30 minutes from Chania
Our sensitive reaction to mass tourism or the social media selfie culture may have something to do with the remote and unknown destinations we usually choose for our vacations, but we’re not really sure. However, don’t be fooled by the first impression of Matala, as we were. Filled with handicraft shops celebrating Cretan artisanship, one taverna after another along the beach, and a promenade leading out toward the rocks, the village does successfully recreate the hippie vibe of the 60s for its visitors. When the busloads of people leave, Matala is supposed to turn into a peaceful retreat, so it may still be worth your visit.
Matala
Lentas
Distance: 55 minutes from Matala
Not even an hour away from Matala lies Lentas, a charming small neighbourhood with a sandy and pebbly beach. To our dismay, we had to skip this spot as well, but it might be the ideal place to relax before continuing on the journey east.
Keratokampos
Distance: 1h 45 minutes from Matala
Another simple but worth seeing place is Keratokampos: A small village along the shore with seemingly more restaurants on the seafront than houses in the town. Even though we didn’t stay in Keratokampos, it’s a great place to spend a night or even two in the simple but cozy accommodations.
Makry Gialos
Distance: 2h 50 minutes from Matala, 1h 40 minutes from Keratokampos
Makry Gialos, which means "long beach," is a village in the south of Crete and was the last destination on our journey through southern Crete. As you might already expect, our first impression wasn’t the best, as the touristy feeling, the "new Aegean architecture," and unfinished buildings along the main road dominated our arrival. But, just like before, we had to correct ourselves. Makry Gialos has a lovely boardwalk with well-designed holiday homes that have been set up in renovated traditional houses, along with some apartments featuring more modern designs that blend perfectly into the surroundings.
Makry Gialos
The area around the little harbour is lined with snuggly restaurants and bars right above the water. The beach itself isn’t particularly large, but it’s sandy, and the age-old tamarisk trees growing along the shore provide cooling shade.
Where to stay:
The White River Cottages in the Aspros Potamos (White River) Valley are quiet and peaceful stone houses in the countryside. Each of the 13 cottages is uniquely designed and has its own character, set in a relaxed atmosphere surrounded by flowers, aromatic herbs, and ancient olive trees. What more could you ask for?
Where to eat:
Piperia is an inviting restaurant in the village of Pefki, known for its excellent traditional Greek food. This place creates an amazing family-like atmosphere with live music that will make it feel like your second home.
Piperia in the village of Pefki
Agios Nikolaos
Distance: 1h 10 minutes from Makry Gialos, 3h from Chania
Agios Nicolaos harbour
From Makry Gialos, we headed north to Agios Nikolaos, a mid-sized town at the eastern end of northern Crete. Our first real encounter with the north was certainly rewarding. It is definitely not an undiscovered spot, but it’s a charming little town set on a small peninsula, surrounded by the sea on three different sides. The eastern side even has a small beach surrounded by culinary offerings.
The centre of town encircles the tiny harbour and Lake Voulismeni, a natural wonder in the middle of the city.
Agios Nicolaos
It might seem very crowded when you see all the tourists coming from their all-inclusive resorts or the cruise ships, but they seem to get absorbed by the many little tree-lined streets and restaurants along the pier. We really enjoyed our time and were more than thrilled with the culinary offerings in the restaurants.
If you want to explore the beaches on Elounda Island, visit Spinalonga Island (quite crowded), check out Sitia (1-hour drive), or stop by the palm tree forests on Vai Beach (1 hour 45 minutes), Agios Nikolaos offers the perfect base and location.
Where to stay:
The Port 7 Boutique Hotel is located at the port entrance of the fairytale-style fishing town of Agios Nikolaos and offers a stylish and intimate stay with panoramic views and an ideal spot.
Looking for the perfect balance between relaxation and exploration? The Elounda Island Villas will fulfil this desire. The nine self-catered holiday apartments with sea and mountain views are located just 1 km from Elounda and near Kolokytha Bay, known for its crystal-clear water. Perfect location – perfect vacation!
A luxury beachfront resort with panoramic views of Mirabello Bay is just one of the highlights of the St. Nicolas Bay Resort (Hotel & Villas). Enjoy your stay on a private beach and complete your mission with a personalized luxury holiday.
Where to eat:
The Gioma Meze restaurant offers a delightful gastronomic experience: a scenic location overlooking the beautiful lake, melodious music, and most importantly, delicious traditional Greek food, along with an amazing selection of fresh seafood.
Whether it's brunch or a late-night dinner, the Maistrali restaurant surprises at any time with tasteful Mediterranean cuisine. Great service, a breathtaking beachfront setting – everything the foodie heart desires.
What to do:
The Spinalonga Island is the second most visited place in Crete and that for good reasons: Its rich and interesting history is captivating millions of people each year. From being a stronghold of the Venetians until becoming a leper colony in 1903 – the traces of the past can’t be missed. Take a ferry from Elounda or Plaka and visit the ruins of this unique place.
Koutouloufari
Distance: 45 minutes from Agios Nikolaos, 2 hours 30 minutes from Chania
The next stop on our road trip in the northern part of Crete was Koutouloufari, where we wanted to visit two of our member lodgings. This tiny village offers the ideal balance between authentic charm and a practical location near the tourist areas. With several small beaches and coves just a few kilometres to the north (Saeadari Beach), it fulfills every desire.
Koutouloufari
Where to stay:
A peaceful, distant vibe, yet everything is nearby – this is what best describes the boutique hotel Villa Zoe in Koutouloufari. A cozy retreat with a bohemian-chic atmosphere.
Villa Ippocampi, on the other hand, is a small, exclusive villa with island-style wooden furniture featuring the traditional colors of Greece. This welcoming, adults-only hideaway, set in the hillside village, offers a sunny yet restful escape for your perfect stay.
Best beach:
Saradari beach, Crete
Panormos in Rethymno
Distance: 1 hour 55 minutes from Agios Nikolaos, 1 hours 20 minutes from Chania
There are a number of famous historic areas around the capital of Crete, Heraklion, but we decided to skip them and continue our adventure to Rethymno. Panormos (in Rethymno) is also a wonderful place to stay, where we found another welcoming little guest house called Villa Kynthia. The inviting village surrounds a fishing port that forms a small bay with clear water and a sandy beach. Even though it’s a small town, it offers quite a few restaurants right on the port and in the small alleys of the village centre. It’s perfectly located to spend a few relaxing days and visit nearby Rethymno or some archaeological sites near Heraklion.
Panormos in Rethymno
Where to stay:
An intimate B&B in the quiet fishing village of Panormo sounds like a magical dream, but Villa Kynthia truly exists! This renovated mansion is a kid-friendly hideaway that will definitely win you over with its historically charming flair.
Villa Kynthia - Panormos
Rethymno
Distance: 2 hours 15 minutes from Agios Nikolaos, 1 hour 10 minutes from Chania
The Venetian harbour, the Ottoman and Venetian old town, and the university are all reasons why Rethymno can be very crowded. However, it’s certainly worth a visit if you’re traveling outside the main season or if you at least avoid the main streets lined with souvenir shops. There are many quieters and more magical parts of the old town that you should definitely explore.
Where to stay:
Located in the old town of Rethymno, the Veneto Boutique Hotel is much more than just a historical treasure. This 600-year-old mansion was once a Dominican monastery, and its stone-built wine cellar particularly reveals its rich history. Savor the high-quality cuisine at the in-house restaurant or admire the art thoughtfully displayed throughout the estate.
Veneto Boutique Hotel Rethymno
Chania
Distance: 1 hour 10 minutes from Rethymno
After traveling around the whole island, we were more than ready to settle down and spend a week in Chania, in northwest Crete. We were told that the Venetian harbour and the old town might be more tourism-focused, but the large population helps balance out the number of tourists, which makes Chania feel more authentic.
Chania
If you venture to the right when reaching the harbour, there is a much quieter area with its own little marina full of fishing boats and fine dining options offering great local food. These streets are filled with inspiring small shops, cafés, and music bars that let you experience the true flair of this town.
Chania
In case you prefer a self-catering service, the best place to buy local products is the newer part of town just at the entrance of the old town, south of the Chania market (currently closed for renovation works).
The famous Red Jane bakery in Chania - wonderful
Chania is also a great place to mix city life with beach holidays. There is a lovely little beach just 30 minutes west in Marathi, with crystal-clear water, golden sand, and some excellent restaurants right above the water. Further west, you’ll find Golden Beach, about 30 minutes away, and the famous beach of Falasarna, which will take you about 50 minutes to reach.
Marathi Beach
After our disappointing experience at Elafonisi Beach, we didn’t have the courage to take the ferry from Kissamos to the world-famous Balos Beach, which can also be reached by car. The road includes an 8 km stretch of dirt track, and you have to hike for about 25 minutes to reach the beach. The views are supposed to be more than spectacular, but in the summer, crowds are surely guaranteed.
Where to stay:
Chania’s Old Town is a true magical place and definitely the best area to stay:
The Pandora Suites always offer breathtaking views. From the rooftop terrace of this 17th-century building, you can enjoy stunning panoramas of the Venetian Harbour, the iconic lighthouse, the serene garden, or the shimmering sea.
Noble and free-spirited – these are the words that best describe the Azade Chania Boutique Hotel. This 17th-century Venetian and Ottoman villa is a relaxing space that will make your stay truly unforgettable.
The three-story Harismari Cozy Hotel truly lives up to its name. Its warm atmosphere, combined with traditional charm and a perfect blend of romance and cosmopolitan flair, makes it an ideal choice for couples.
Best Beaches:
Set within Souda Bay, Marathi Beach offers a breathtaking view of the White Mountains while providing a calm and tranquil setting. Try out some water activities, savor fresh seafood at the nearby tavernas, or simply enjoy the crystal-clear, cooling water. Just be careful—the seafloor can be a bit rocky.
Falassarna Beach is known for its powdery white and pink sand, as well as its stunning sunset views. As part of a protected nature reserve, it boasts beautiful flora and fauna—definitely worth a visit!
Another must-see destination is Balos Lagoon, with its hypnotizing turquoise waters and breathtaking panoramic landscape—a paradise on earth. Just be prepared for a short hike from the parking lot to the beach.
Where to eat:
Looking for fresh seafood or Mediterranean cuisine in a cozy ambiance? Then To Maridaki in Chania’s old town is the perfect choice. Be sure to book a reservation in advance—you won’t be the only one craving their amazing food!
Another great choice for dinner is Thalassino Ageri, a traditional Greek fish tavern in the Chalepa neighborhood near Chania. The scenic surroundings and romantic setting will enrich your gastronomic experience for sure.
If you’re looking for a tasty journey in Nea Chora, Kaïki will fulfill your desires. Known for its high marks in taste and quality, it won’t disappoint, especially with its inviting and charming atmosphere.
For seafood lovers, the amazing air-dried octopus at Rokos Restaurant is a must-try. Located in Marathi, the taverna offers a highly recommended traditional Greek experience with excellent service.
Patrelantonis Fish Taverna is the best option for Fish aficionados and owned by a nice local family in Marathi. Tasty dishes and a stunning view – vacation for all your senses.
A delicious restaurant we fully recommend near the old harbour is Psarotaverna o Stelios - great ambiance, amazing food and a welcoming atmosphere.
Stelios restaurant in the old harbour
Pastry Shop in Chania